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wb131988 TweakNOOB
Joined: 03 Feb 2005 Posts: 194 Location: UK
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Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 6:02 am Post subject: Alpine R + Audiobahn Versus Alpine X + Lanzar Vibe |
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Hi,
I would like to know your opinions on which combination will produce the best sound out of these two:
1. 2 12" Alpine Type R subs with an Audiobahn A8001DT at 1ohm
2. 2 12" Alpine Type X with 2 Lanzar Vibe268 amps at 2ohm.
All under same conditions e.g. HU. Which one? Cheers  |
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wb131988 TweakNOOB
Joined: 03 Feb 2005 Posts: 194 Location: UK
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Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 8:57 am Post subject: |
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any at least vague reply would be much appreciated  |
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ToggleHead TWEAKGURU

Joined: 03 Mar 2004 Posts: 4360 Location: Jersey
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Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 9:01 am Post subject: |
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for two like subs...i would prefer a ONE amp setup..... as for the quality of those subs....i know the R's knock.... but i am unfamiliar with the X's _________________
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wb131988 TweakNOOB
Joined: 03 Feb 2005 Posts: 194 Location: UK
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Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 1:25 pm Post subject: |
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well put it this way then (a gud way to work it out ), which one do you think would sound better:
1. 2 Alpine R's with 1 Audiobahn 8001DT
2. 2 Alpine R's with 2 Lanzar Vibe268's
If you think 1. is better than 2., then 1. will obviously be better than the X's. Unless otherwise.  |
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Zero_Fresh UberTweaker

Joined: 21 Jul 2004 Posts: 1450 Location: Between PA and the ocean
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Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 2:22 pm Post subject: |
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I think the first would be our best bet. _________________ "....Or as almost every word in a sentence; Tweak the tweaking tweakers!"
Josh Awards = 2 |
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ToggleHead TWEAKGURU

Joined: 03 Mar 2004 Posts: 4360 Location: Jersey
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Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 11:20 pm Post subject: |
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i agree with fresh here.... but again...... its rough to tell.....
if the X's sound better than the R's on the SAME amp..... they may still sound better on the TWO amps......
out of curiosity.....dont you already have bumpin system? _________________
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wb131988 TweakNOOB
Joined: 03 Feb 2005 Posts: 194 Location: UK
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Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 7:38 am Post subject: |
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lol yer i do, i was just comparing my system with one a friend may be getting. I am wondering why my system sounds bassier on some days than it does on others, even with the same settings and volume? Is it just a case of cleaning my ears out? lol  |
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c o n v e x7 TweakNOOB
Joined: 25 Apr 2005 Posts: 10
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Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2005 4:37 pm Post subject: |
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| what wattage are the amps?? |
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wb131988 TweakNOOB
Joined: 03 Feb 2005 Posts: 194 Location: UK
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Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2005 4:42 pm Post subject: |
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| My amp is a Audiobahn A8001DT monoblock d class amp, 800w RMS @1 ohm, which is what I have my subs wired at (1 ohm). |
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c o n v e x7 TweakNOOB
Joined: 25 Apr 2005 Posts: 10
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Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2005 5:08 pm Post subject: |
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i know i meant the other to...your mates or what have you  |
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wb131988 TweakNOOB
Joined: 03 Feb 2005 Posts: 194 Location: UK
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Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 10:17 am Post subject: |
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| 1000w RMS at 2 ohm (x2) |
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wb131988 TweakNOOB
Joined: 03 Feb 2005 Posts: 194 Location: UK
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Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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| is it true a subsonic filter is not needed for subwoofers in a sealed box? |
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fussnfeathers Lord of the Tweak

Joined: 14 Dec 2004 Posts: 2763
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Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 2:59 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah, it's true.
Ideally, you don't want ANY filtering, besides the frequency cutoff. Use an EQ to sort out any resonances caused by the environment. Use a decent parametric EQ, and find the exact frequency that your subs are "boomy", and cut that just a little bit......not TOO much, just enough to smooth it out. It'll take some time, but it's worth it in the end.
As far as your box sounding bassier on certain days.......temp plays a role in it, just like a PSU. Your amp will lose a bit of power on really hot days, the speakers will move slightly less, etc. Face it, a CAR is not the ideal soundstage, even the amount of crap in the back seat will affect the sound of the stereo.
But yeah, your ears are part of it too. Some days, you just don't hear as well. _________________ Big enough to scare you |
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ToggleHead TWEAKGURU

Joined: 03 Mar 2004 Posts: 4360 Location: Jersey
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Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 3:17 pm Post subject: |
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not to mention...every cd you listen to has different audio properties..... not everyone was recorded by the same engineer at the same place, you know?
=] _________________
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wb131988 TweakNOOB
Joined: 03 Feb 2005 Posts: 194 Location: UK
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Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 3:22 pm Post subject: |
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lol or for example cheap CD-R's used!!!  |
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wb131988 TweakNOOB
Joined: 03 Feb 2005 Posts: 194 Location: UK
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Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 3:23 pm Post subject: |
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| so how do i get this 'EQ' feature to set my system up then? on my headuint maybe? its the Alpine CDA-9830R |
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fussnfeathers Lord of the Tweak

Joined: 14 Dec 2004 Posts: 2763
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Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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Um.......you need to BUY an EQ. Most head units come with a basic 5 band eq, but nothing that's able to handle specific frequency ranges that presicely. Sure, you can use a filter to cut a specific frequency, but each speaker, box, and vehicle has a different resonant frequency, and no one "does it all frequency attenuator" does the job.
You want a 3 or 4 band parametric EQ. These allow you to select the frequency you want, and cut/boost that frequency. They're not expensive, about $100 for a decent quality one from any of the major brands.
For reference, the CD media has little to do with it. CD's are CD's are CD's, and as long as the digital signal is transferred correctly to the CD, a cheapie Staples CD will sound as good as a high-dollar Matsumi. The difference in quality is in the amount of coasters burned.......cheap CD's will give you at least a 12 place-setting coaster set per 100, high quality will barely give you enough for a couple of beers on a Monday night. _________________ Big enough to scare you |
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wb131988 TweakNOOB
Joined: 03 Feb 2005 Posts: 194 Location: UK
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Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 3:56 pm Post subject: |
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lol tru, but i think i actually meant the conversion of tracks from MP3 to cda, which then makes some sound data get lost? Whereas proper audio companies do not have to go through this process, correct?  |
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fussnfeathers Lord of the Tweak

Joined: 14 Dec 2004 Posts: 2763
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Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 4:27 pm Post subject: |
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Yup, in that case.
Compressing audio tracks to MP3 discards some info, so the MP3 is definitely an inferior product.
Use a lossless encoder, if you want to do that, like AAC or FLAC. Depends on your player, though, so find out which one it supports. _________________ Big enough to scare you |
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sandness SirTweaksabit

Joined: 18 Oct 2004 Posts: 274 Location: is everything
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Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 5:16 pm Post subject: |
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| fussnfeathers wrote: | Um.......you need to BUY an EQ. Most head units come with a basic 5 band eq, but nothing that's able to handle specific frequency ranges that presicely. Sure, you can use a filter to cut a specific frequency, but each speaker, box, and vehicle has a different resonant frequency, and no one "does it all frequency attenuator" does the job.
You want a 3 or 4 band parametric EQ. These allow you to select the frequency you want, and cut/boost that frequency. They're not expensive, about $100 for a decent quality one from any of the major brands. |
His Alpine has a 4 band parametric EQ. It will do just as good a job as any other external 4 band EQ. However wb, if you want to tune your system to the max, you might want to look for a good 15band EQ or larger. That will give you more precise control. Now, if you really feal like dropping some dough, buy a good balanced mike and some RTA software- it would help you 'see' how your system sounds. That would really help in tuning with a large EQ. |
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ToggleHead TWEAKGURU

Joined: 03 Mar 2004 Posts: 4360 Location: Jersey
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Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 5:48 pm Post subject: |
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| wb131988 wrote: | lol tru, but i think i actually meant the conversion of tracks from MP3 to cda, which then makes some sound data get lost? Whereas proper audio companies do not have to go through this process, correct?  |
and just to nitpick, when burning an audio disk, the files remain mp3s, in fact , theyre not really mp3s either.... their just "audio data".... the cda files you see whn exploring are just indexing tracks the cd player needs to determine where the tracks are.....=] _________________
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fussnfeathers Lord of the Tweak

Joined: 14 Dec 2004 Posts: 2763
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Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 11:23 pm Post subject: |
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| ToggleHead wrote: | | wb131988 wrote: | lol tru, but i think i actually meant the conversion of tracks from MP3 to cda, which then makes some sound data get lost? Whereas proper audio companies do not have to go through this process, correct?  |
and just to nitpick, when burning an audio disk, the files remain mp3s, in fact , theyre not really mp3s either.... their just "audio data".... the cda files you see whn exploring are just indexing tracks the cd player needs to determine where the tracks are.....=] |
See, this is why I was gonna stop posting for awhile, I'm so distracted I keep messing things up........but.............................I can't............stop.............somebody please help meeeeee!
Anyway, just to nitpick YOUR nitpick.....CDA actually is a file format, it's a WAV file with specific header information added into it, and is an un-editable WAV file, designed specifically for playback, and includes track info that can be displayed on cd players with text info displays. (whew)
MP3 is the compressed format.....when you compress a file to MP3, some audio data (extreme high and low frequencies, silent or near-silent parts, basically anything below a certain audio threshold) is discarded, which is why MP3's sound "dead" compared to a regular WAV or CDA file. Converting an MP3 back to WAV does NOT put the info back, once it's gone, it's gone.......all you'll have is a much larger WAV or CDA file that sounds like an MP3.
These days, most studios record directly to WAV format, which is then "converted" to CDA by the cd manufacturer. Old-school tape, DAT, or ADAT recording was converted to WAV by the manufacturer, and sometimes didn't come out quite right. You can definitely tell the difference between a CD mastered from a direct WAV recording and the same song done via tape or ADAT and converted to WAV. _________________ Big enough to scare you |
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ToggleHead TWEAKGURU

Joined: 03 Mar 2004 Posts: 4360 Location: Jersey
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Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 11:59 pm Post subject: |
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im not sure i learned the same thing..... explain then why cda files are only a few k large.....
and you still get cda files when you burn an audio disc using mp3s _________________
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fussnfeathers Lord of the Tweak

Joined: 14 Dec 2004 Posts: 2763
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Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 12:34 am Post subject: |
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It's been awhile since I've done it, but here's how it (used to) work(s)
If you copy an MP3 directly to CD, keeping the MP3 file format, it transfers strictly as data, and in previous years, MP3 file formats were not recognized by stand-alone cd players. Alot of new ones will play MP3's now, but they still have to be in data format.
When you "burn an audio cd", meaning using Nero or such to Create an Audio CD, the files are converted back into WAV format, which any CD player, regardless of age, recognizes. That's why, when you do this, you can only fit 15 or so tracks on a CD, compared to 100 or so MP3's on a CD. The small-ish CDA files you see in some explorers are an integral part of the file, and cannot be stripped out. Technically, yes, they're simply header information, but the WAV file tied to the CDA file cannot be used without the CDA. If that makes any sense. In terms of a standard CD player, home units will play WAV files just fine, and in fact will play ANY data file just fine, but the circuitry only recognizes one file type (two, now, in MP3 capable players), and CDA is the file format they read.
I'm sure things have changed a bit since I last made an audio CD from MP3's, haven't had the need to, but that's how it worked a couple of years ago. In one respect, you're right, CDA files are simply a header tag, but they're also tied to the WAV file like a siamese twin.........delete the CDA file, and the WAV file is useless. _________________ Big enough to scare you |
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wb131988 TweakNOOB
Joined: 03 Feb 2005 Posts: 194 Location: UK
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Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 10:32 am Post subject: |
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lol okie dokie didnt mean to start an argument but i think the .wav format of audio cds is correct..... even tho this forum is named Alpine r type etc. etc. But anyway the conclusion is DIY disks are lower quality than original manufactured discs and so wont play as loud in your car sound system....  |
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