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Hooking a car sub, up to my Z-5300's

 
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-=Pyro-Psycho=-
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 2:57 pm    Post subject: Hooking a car sub, up to my Z-5300's Reply with quote

Hmm would anyone know how to do this? I'm guess that there is probably a way to do this, but I'm not really sure how. I don't have the sub here yet, so I haven't had anytime to look at it. I'm hoping some of you will know how to do this, and what I will need.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

for one you will need an amp to power said sub.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess the amp for the 5300's can't handle another sub huh?
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oldmandingus
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

uhm i think that would probably be pointless. The build in amp in the The logitech z-5300's, probably doesnt put out alot of wattage, just adding another sub wouldnt make the bass louder,it would just divide the amps bass wattage by 2, and split it into two subs. It might be cool to have surround bass though
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not true, people have hooked up multiple subs before (they were Z-5300 subs, or 680 subs) and increased bass. I was wondering if it would do the same, and be possible with just a sub for a car.
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Spiegel
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would think he's trying to replace the 5300's sub, no? I dunno, but how powerful is the sub for that system? I'm guessing it's not like the 5500/680 unit(s), eh? Anyway, good luck, heh I haven't messed too much with car audio yet (no car) so I dunno what you would need to do to set that up...
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No I don't wanna replace, I want to add it on. I got a 12" sub for free and I don't have a vehicle to put it in, so I figured why not just add it on to my PC? :)
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fussnfeathers
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hm......I wouldn't do it. Here's the reasons......

In order to hook up another sub, you'd have to daisy-chain it to the existing sub, which would mean cracking open the case. Since the Logitech sub boxes are sealed, no screws visible, you'd have to cut open the side........which would pretty much destroy any bass you had going on there. Second is the ohm rating. I'm pretty sure Logitech used a sub with a close wattage and ohm rating to the built-in amp. If the sub inside is, say, 4 ohms, and the amp's max rating is 4 ohms, adding a second car sub (usually 4 ohms, but can be as low as 2 ohms for a dual-coil sub bridged for mono use) will lower the ohm rating too far. Say, you get a dual-coil sub, rated 4 ohms per coil, bridge it, then run it in parallel (hook the connectors together positve/positive, etc), you'll drop the ohm rating for both subs down to just below 3 ohms. After a relatively short time, you'll burn out your amp.

I really wouldn't try it.

Also of note, car subs have a different frequency "map", to compensate for the small confines of a car. They don't sound nearly as good in a large room.

The guys who hooked up multiple '680 subs used 1/8 splitters at the PC, and ran cables to each sub, which is perfectly fine. In that case, each speaker is getting it's own signal load, on its own amp.
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[TN] Nathan
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 6:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Hooking a car sub, up to my Z-5300's Reply with quote

-=Pyro-Psycho=- wrote:
Hmm would anyone know how to do this? I'm guess that there is probably a way to do this, but I'm not really sure how. I don't have the sub here yet, so I haven't had anytime to look at it. I'm hoping some of you will know how to do this, and what I will need.


Just don't go there.

The 5300 sub is pretty damn loud.

I know, I am testing them right now.
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Josh
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your car may break
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Josh wrote:
Your car may break


Car?

Hmm well thanks for the input guys. Maybe I can find another use for the sub.
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JayDubya
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 1:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Hooking a car sub, up to my Z-5300's Reply with quote

-=Pyro-Psycho=- wrote:
Hmm would anyone know how to do this? I'm guess that there is probably a way to do this, but I'm not really sure how. I don't have the sub here yet, so I haven't had anytime to look at it. I'm hoping some of you will know how to do this, and what I will need.


It could easily be done . . . but its hard =P

Like weaz said, you would need an amp to power the woofer. It can be a goofy, complicated, and expensive setup. I would suggest just buying an extra sub (if it's needed) and using a splitter for it.

my 2c
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 1:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Hooking a car sub, up to my Z-5300's Reply with quote

JayDubya wrote:

It could easily be done . . . but its hard =P



I used to be indecisive...now I'm not sure.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 2:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Hooking a car sub, up to my Z-5300's Reply with quote

JayDubya wrote:
Like weaz said, you would need an amp to power the woofer. It can be a goofy, complicated, and expensive setup.


Well I got the extra sub for free, so what else would I need besides an amp?
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Zero_Fresh
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok.. Basicaly it works like this...

The sub needs power to work. The amount of power is dtermined by the rating of the sub. (i.e. 200 watts....) Now the amp in the sub with the 530's is, like most have said, probaly set just right for the sub its powering. So you would need to find yourself an amp that would fit two essential properties of the sub you have. 1. Wattage. (If max watts on the sub is 200, you'll be fine with 100-150 watt amp. The RMS of the sub will most likely be in that range.) 2. ohms..Make sure the sub is designed to be run at whatever ohmage you are looking at. I would recommend 2 ohm mono. (When looking at amp wattage. make sure you read what it is for 4ohm and 2ohm, and also mono and stereo on both of the ohmages as well.)

Once you have the proper equipment, there are a couple of angles of attack here. I think the easiest being, hooking the amp directly to your computer. and that way you'll have the controls for the logitecs and a seperate control for the second sub. If you aren't looking for two controls, then things may become more complicated and at that point not worth it.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zero_Fresh wrote:
Ok.. Basicaly it works like this...

The sub needs power to work. The amount of power is dtermined by the rating of the sub. (i.e. 200 watts....) Now the amp in the sub with the 530's is, like most have said, probaly set just right for the sub its powering. So you would need to find yourself an amp that would fit two essential properties of the sub you have. 1. Wattage. (If max watts on the sub is 200, you'll be fine with 100-150 watt amp. The RMS of the sub will most likely be in that range.) 2. ohms..Make sure the sub is designed to be run at whatever IMPEDANCE ohmage you are looking at. I would recommend 2 ohm mono. (When looking at amp wattage. make sure you read what it is for 4ohm and 2ohm, and also mono and stereo on both of the ohmages as well.)

Once you have the proper equipment, there are a couple of angles of attack here. I think the easiest being, hooking the amp directly to your computer. and that way you'll have the controls for the logitecs and a seperate control for the second sub. If you aren't looking for two controls, then things may become more complicated and at that point not worth it.


Check on or around the magnet for numbers. Wattage and impedence are needed to find the right amp. You will probably use a car amplifier to run the sub. It can be tricky getting a car amp to work in your house. I've done it with a car battery and charger but that's jsut been to test it out. You can probably find an amp that runs on 110v but it probably won't provide much power and will be way too expensive.

If the sub is rated at 200watts RMS and you only feed it 100w RMS you can do some damage to it. Its actually better (in most cases) to give it a little more power than recommended i.e.- 250watts RMS amp with 200watt sub. You can always turn the gain down. You'll notice the difference when listening to it too.

Long story short - you may want to jsut get rid of the sub (sell it) and try to get another sub with a box and amp built in that you can hook up to 110v AC
my 2c
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JayDubya wrote:
Check on or around the magnet for numbers. Wattage and impedence are needed to find the right amp. You will probably use a car amplifier to run the sub. It can be tricky getting a car amp to work in your house. I've done it with a car battery and charger but that's jsut been to test it out. You can probably find an amp that runs on 110v but it probably won't provide much power and will be way too expensive.

If the sub is rated at 200watts RMS and you only feed it 100w RMS you can do some damage to it. Its actually better (in most cases) to give it a little more power than recommended i.e.- 250watts RMS amp with 200watt sub. You can always turn the gain down. You'll notice the difference when listening to it too.

Long story short - you may want to jsut get rid of the sub (sell it) and try to get another sub with a box and amp built in that you can hook up to 110v AC
my 2c


Thanks for the input. Just checking to see what my options were with it. I'll probably just hold on to the sub till I can find a more practical use for it.
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