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Oil Consumption
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[TN] Nathan
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sally wrote:
SS, it seems that some amount of 'soot' at the tail pipe is inevitable. I do have this present in the olds as well. If y'all look to the forum link I posted above, some of the caddy guys seem not to be to worried at all

[quote "RANGER from cadillacforums.com"] Apparently keeping the level at MAX will allow the crankshaft counter weights to mist the oil and suck it into the PCV and burn it til the level gets down again.



Nate...if there was sludge coming out of the upper radiator hose, I should also notice that same substance in my pressure-tank, no?[/quote]

The black soot out of the tail pipe is not oil related. All vehicles have that. Almost two quarts over 1500miles is not normal for any engine.

Have you done a tuneup lately at all?

Also, sometimes the sludge won't go to the overflow and only float up to the top of the rad when the engine is stopped, the rad is contracting and the rad is actually drawing coolant from the overflow resevoir.

Should be checked though, you could have a gasket leak.
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Sally
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aye, I will look into that.

As far as the tuneup situation goes, somehat yes. She has new plugs (about 6-8 months old NGK Irridium) and the filter is fine.
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[TN] Nathan
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ah, ok

Remember to replace your fuel filter also and have a tranny flush and fill with a new filter.

Fuel filters have to be replaced every 30k-40k miles.
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Sally
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't remember I did the fuel filter on this car, but I know I had the tranny flushed and a filter kit put in in august
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[TN] Nathan
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, it should be done.
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Silicon Skum
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[TN] Nathan wrote:
Also, you don't use 20w50 in small engines, very poor thinking and is starving your engine for oil at startup. This is not speculation, this is fact.

Lower the grade to 5w40 for better fuel economy and proper protection. The Cooper's oil pump is not meant to pump that thick of oil.


I should have pointed out that the *old* Cooper is an 'A' series engine(actually it's an A + engine), it's a design thats over 40Years old, so 20W50 is acceptable. The standard minimum oil is 15W40, even a new A series will use up oil if it is 10W40 or less. 5W40 is a garanteed dead engine and gearbox in a very short time! Don't for get the gearbox shreds the hell out of the oil before the engine ever sees it.

The new cooper uses "BMW service oil" (5W30?) which is actually just Mobile1at a higher price. Not had it's first oil change yet (10K changes ) so might book it in early for an oil change, god knows what is floating around in that oil after the engine break-in.
On any MODERN car ( less than 15yrs old) 20W50 will be REALLY bad for an engine, unless it is burning so much oil you would swear it's a diesel (in which case it's stuffed anyway).

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[TN] Nathan
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you know what the X in XXwYY stands for don't you?
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Silicon Skum
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[TN] Nathan wrote:
Do you know what the X in XXwYY stands for don't you?


multi-grade, Xw = low temperature viscosity ( SAE @ 0 degrees F) YY High temp viscosity ( SAE @ 210 degrees F).

why?

I worked in an oil analasis lab for a lubricant company for a while, I used to check the viscosity of batches, spectoral analasis, IR cromatography etc. I also had a free supply of oil for my car while I worked there

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a procedure i'm going to try to get you. Its a little complicated and may take a a night and a morning, but it might be worth a shot. PM me if you have a fax available. I should be able to send it out saturday morning.
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[TN] Nathan
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Silicon Skum wrote:
[TN] Nathan wrote:
Do you know what the X in XXwYY stands for don't you?


multi-grade, Xw = low temperature viscosity ( SAE @ 0 degrees F) YY High temp viscosity ( SAE @ 210 degrees F).

why?

I worked in an oil analasis lab for a lubricant company for a while, I used to check the viscosity of batches, spectoral analasis, IR cromatography etc. I also had a free supply of oil for my car while I worked there

§


No, XX in XXwYY does not stand for cold viscosity, it stand for a cold pumping coefficient rated to show the pupability of the oil at -25c.

No oil or fluid is thinner when cold than when hot.

10w30
5w30
0w30

They are all 30 weight oils at 100c but the first number is how well the oil pumps at low temperstures.

20w50 is completely wrong for your application. Hell my dad only uses 15w40 in his industrial construction equipment.

You should reconsider and go with maybe a 5w40 and stop strving your engine's top end of oil.
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Ham_fisT
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back on topic...did you get a look at the plugs when they were last changed?

Pull one out and describe what it looks like, the insulator SHOULD be a light grey ashy color, and NOT wet looking, and the electrode tip should be flat, with no deposits on it,.

pull one out, and tell us what you see
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Sally
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 2:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

in this particular vehical, there are NO plug wires. There is an individual coil pack atop each plug. the plugs themselves are recessed in tubes and have rubber sealing boots around them. Its interesting, but a pain in the ass. I don't recall what the old plugs looked like when they came out as I didn't do it. Matt might remember...he was there....
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Ham_fisT
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 2:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It might be a pain in the a$$, but so is adding oil every week

pull one or two out and look at them, Spark plug condition is one ot the BEST ways to tell how how an engine is running
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Sally
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 2:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

grrrrrrrr I know it. I will have to see if I have some time here over break. I hope so.
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sandness
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sally wrote:
I don't recall what the old plugs looked like when they came out as I didn't do it. Matt might remember...he was there....



I don't recall the condition of the plugs when changing them. I know they had some carbon build up, but I don't think it was too severe. And I can't recall how the gaps were either. Perhaps we can pop out a few front plugs over the break (although it won't be much fun working with some of those plastic parts in freezing cold weather).
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